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Franc-wise France
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Franc-wise France has one objective: to
identify quality cooking for the fewest francs possible. (“Fine fare for
few francs” would make an apt alternative title.) The French have the ideal
label to summarise exactly what I mean: rapport qualité-prix (RQP).
Rapport, a precise word, emphasises the all-important balance between quality
and price. “Good-value”, “value-for-money” and “bargain-price” cooking are
inadequate English labels. Not one of them stresses the importance of
“quality”. There has never been any difficulty nosing out low-cost menus
in France. The only snag is you eat many a disappointing meal along the way;
cheap menus save francs but often quality is non-existent. To qualify for
inclusion in Franc-wise France (FWF) all recommended hotels
and restaurants must offer clients quality cooking in one or more menus within
three price bands: A (under 100 francs); B (between 100 and 135 francs);
and C (between 135 and 165 francs). At current exchange rates that means
a range covering from about £10 ($15) to a ceiling of £20 ($30).
One onerous additional condition of entry is that at least one qualifying
menu must be available at all times - including weekends and public holidays.
Many prospective candidates fail on this count. Michelin multi-starred chefs
fail to meet my price criteria. However, many one-star chefs do offer a RQP
menu - and several are included. Starred restaurants have had a tough time
in recent years but those lower down the ambition scale, guided by the lifesaving
RQP culinary lighthouse, have had fewer problems and continue to flourish.
Your hard-earned cash is better spent when you seek out the hotels and
restaurants in this guide. You are not paying for a theatrical extravaganza;
what counts is the food on the plate. Owners are in situ and the enjoyment
factor is high. As a bonus, value-for-money prices stretch your francs further.
Three caveats. First, like all my guides, FWF is for the independent
motorist. I deliberately do not direct you into the centres of cities and
the largest towns - where noise, traffic, thefts from cars, parking and
navigation are all nightmares. Visit them during the day to admire their
architectural glories but, come the evening, look elsewhere for a meal and
a place to lay your head. Second, when I use the word basic to describe bedrooms,
that’s exactly what I mean. Third, standards at Michelin ‘Repas”
(“R”) restaurants vary wildly; many have been excluded from FWF. Of
the 351 recommendations in Franc-wise France approximately one-third
have been “inspected” by 22 of my readers - all of whom have long understood
what I mean by rapport qualité-prix. |
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